We loaded up our gear, mounted our bikes and picked our way through morning traffic behind the Andiamo van out of Siracusa. Our destination: Caltagirone, a legendary ceramics town in central Sicily. We climbed 2,000 feet from the coast onto the … Continue reading
We pedaled out of Siracusa away from the Mediterranean up a long grade onto a rocky escarpment toward the historic ruin of Antico Noto (Old Noto). Antico Noto was famous in its day, rumored to be a stopover for Hercules as … Continue reading
Sicily is the football at the boot of Italy, and it’s been kicked around since the beginning of recorded time—though not necessarily by Italy. More significant than sitting on Italy’s toe, its locus at the crossroads of Mediterranean shipping lanes … Continue reading