Amsterdam 2016

Americans on Bikes in Amsterdam

Posted on July 7, 2016 by jhundredDecember 31, 2019

Riding a bike around Amsterdam can be daunting at first as one learns the basic road rules. Then it becomes exhilarating. You can get anywhere quickly without delays.

The family, ready to ride.

The basic road rules, as outsiders say, is “there are no rules”. This is not true. There are many clear rules regarding right-of-way and traffic signals, and bikes have protected bike lanes and directional privileges everywhere. One of the basic rules is that you may break any rule on a bike as long as you don’t collide with someone else. If you give the car/cyclist/motorbike time to avoid a collision, you’re OK. If not, stop. Whoever’s behind you better stop also. Instantly. Anticipate everything that might happen in front of you so you can stop on a dime, or swerve onto a sidewalk, or speed through a gap.

No better way to learn about the city than by bike tour with guide Eva.

The roads that line the concentric canals are fun. They’re paved with brick, one-way for cars but two-way for bikes, and they go up and down at the bridges. Service vehicles can be parked in the middle of them, leaving a 1 m. gap to cruise through to the left or right. Pedestrians wander down the middle of the roads. Faster bikes pass on the left and the right. Scenic canals line the way if you have time to look.

Motorbikes get to use bike lanes, which makes them one of the chief hazards for cyclists.

Amsterdam biking is akin to mountain biking. It requires the same skills. Instead of dodging rocks and tree roots, you dodge road hazards and bikes and walkers. You are locked in. You need quick power to get through a gap, then a combo braking/turning maneuver to avoid a pavement gap, a bunny hop to get up a curb, cold guts to face down a car reluctant to give way. Time speeds along, the scenery is amazing and you arrive at your destination before you ever thought you could. You even ride with low tire pressure for traction and cushioning. No one wears helmets, though, except American tour groups constrained by liability insurance.

Oh yes, and watch for pedestrians!

We rented bikes after the first couple days for the duration of our stay, and even the novice bike riders among us enjoyed the freedom and challenge of two wheels. It’s the quintessential Amsterdammer way to experience the city, although our bike helmets and timidity assured we wouldn’t be mistaken for natives.

A particularly tricky maneuver is required when a ghost wheel appears in front of your bike…..

Honderd hipsters dominate the Amsterdam bike scene.

Gallery

Amsterdam: Fiets, Bakfiets and Fietscultuur

Posted on July 7, 2016 by jhundredDecember 31, 2019

Gallery

The Myth of Hans Brinker

Posted on July 9, 2016 by jhundredDecember 31, 2019

Hans Brinker is not Dutch. We were informed of this by our Dutch guide shortly after arriving in the Netherlands. Huh? “Hans Brinker, or The Silver Skates” has been celebrated literature since the mid-1800’s in American schools—most famously as propagator of the story of the little Dutch boy who stuck his finger in a dike to save his country. This little story-within-a-story, called “The Hero of Haarlem”, is told in the book as part of the larger Hans Brinker narrative, although the hero, unnamed, is NOT Hans Brinker.

Can this have never happened???

Mary Mapes Dodge

It turns out that “Hans Brinker” was written by an American, Mary Mapes Dodge, who had never visited the Netherlands. She leaned on book research and Dutch neighbors to fill in authentic details about Dutch life and history. In the end, she produced an inspiring tale about an honorable lad who does the right thing despite difficult family circumstances. It is also, intrinsically, an American fable.

Boy-and-the-dike statue, Madurodan

Russell Shorto, American author of the excellent book “Amsterdam: A History of the World’s Most Liberal City” explains in a discussion of Dutch character. The story of the boy and the dike perplexes the Dutch because, first, a small hole in a dike through which water pours is an impossibility, and, second, the Dutch would never bring up a child to think he/she should stop this crisis on his/her own. In a Dutch version, the child would run to the local Water Board, which would pull out an emergency plan and marshall local citizens to fix the dike. The history of the Dutch struggle against the sea is all about group effort.

“Hans Brinker”, then, illustrates the difference between American individualism and Dutch collectivism. This, of course, has not kept a few Dutch towns from trying to capitalize on tourism by erecting a statue to the hero of the story or an Amsterdam hostel from naming itself “Hans Brinker Budget Hotel”. But according to Wikipedia’s entry on the subject, seconded by our guide, Joppe, “The story of the dike-plugging boy is….not widely known in the Netherlands — it is a piece of American, rather than Dutch, folklore.”

Scrapbook

Posted on July 15, 2016 by jhundredDecember 31, 2019

We always come back with a collection of noteworthy moments and photos that haven’t found their way into a post. Here’s the Dutch scrapbook.

: Canal Cleaner: note skimmer bucket for trash and arm with grappling hook to pull out debris–specifically, old bikes

: The ONLY drinking fountain we saw in the Netherlands! Bring a water bottle.

: Why is this roof lying on the ground? Look below for the answer.

: A family adventure race in historic Elburg included a canal experience.

: Dairy, dairy everywhere. This Dutch staple produces desserts such as creme brûlée with ice cream and whipped cream. I gained 4 pounds!

: The Head, the Neck and the Body: traditional farmhouse design, where Head=House, Neck=Mudroom/Hallway and Body=Barn

: Joppe, our fluster-proof tour leader, contemplating with Mark

: How you get a bike or stroller up steps and across the canal.

: Huh? We needed interpretation for this road sign. “BOB” refers to a designated driver; “0% op” means NO alcohol; so this sign reminds drinking buddies to always include a sober designated driver!

: Your answer to the roof lying on the ground above. Note that the structure uses only 3 columns, the minimum for stability. The roof is raised by pulleys hung from the columns, then it hovers over the haymow.

: Individual shutters feature the names of individual tenants in this Amsterdam apartment building.

: This shot by Paula (look closely to see camera) is just SO clever we have to include it!

: Remembering our delightful and slightly-Asperger’s guide from the Botanical Gardens.

This is how Dutch school kids get to the annual all-district field day:

And this is how the Dutch “Share the Road.” This is a common road design in rural areas. Note the e-bikes, which are increasingly common there (especially for tourists).