Salt Flats Bike Ride

Looking over salt flats to current Lake Manyara shoreline

Looking over salt flats to current Lake Manyara shoreline

Mika adding salts and minerals to his diet.

Mika adding salts and minerals to his diet.

We stayed at a tented lodge on the shores of Lake Manyara one night–a statement which is sure to draw up a very wrong image.  Lake Manyara is a shallow lake of vastly varying footprint between the rainy and the dry seasons, and it was already retreating far from the lodge when we arrived shortly after the start of the dry season.  It is an alkaline lake, known for its mineral salt composition, and its retreat exposes an expansive salt flats.

The crusted mud top concealed deep goo, keeping us from getting near the flamingos.

The crusted mud top concealed deep goo, keeping us from getting near the flamingos.

Zebra, wildebeest, warthogs, buffalo and other animals graze the salt flats, as well as goad herds of the Barbaig tribe, and the lake itself is famous for the pink flamingos that line its shores.  We decided to take a morning walk toward the lake shore in hope of getting closer to the flamingos. The crusted mud dissolved into ankle deep grease long before we got near the flamingos.  In the meantime, we came across two boys cleaning buckets of fish they had netted in the lake.

The fish were cyclids, a small fish which they would cook and dry and sell for about 10,000 shillings a bucket.  They pointed to 2 friends still pulling nets in the distance.  They were having a terrific day–it looked

Boy busy cleaning the morning's catch of cyclids

Boy busy cleaning the morning’s catch of cyclids

His partner with a bucket of fish ready to go

His partner with a bucket of fish ready to go

like they already had 3 buckets worth, plus whatever more their friends brought in. Nearby lay 3 bikes.

Four boys, 4 pails of fish, 3 bikes, the village 5 km away–the math didn’t compute for Westerners.  Mika asked if he could try one of the bikes.  He rode it in a small circle, then turned it over to me.  The front wheel wobbled so badly I barely stayed upright–bad bearings or even a broken axle, I figured.  But I knew it wouldn’t keep these boys and fish from getting to town.

 

Mika riding one of the bikes.  I got my chance next.

Mika riding one of the bikes. I got my chance next.

 

 

A Barbaig Boma

One of the great joys of travel is the unexpected encounter, the unscripted moment that betrays the itinerary.  As our walk on the Lake Manyara salt flats continued, we spotted a brush-fence perimeter 1000 meters distant. We could see a herder with some goats in the vicinity, and our day guide (a local guide, assigned by our lodge) suggested we could walk in that direction.

BomaDistance

We walk toward the boma in the distance.

Our host, who invited us  to see his boma

Our host, who invited us to see his boma

We approached the herder and our day guide offered greetings and small talk in Swahili, and asked if we might inspect the brush-fence perimeter. The man, a Barbaig, offered to show us not only the brush fence but his whole boma.

The Barbaig tribe migrated into northern Tanzania a few centuries before the Maasai. They came from the Sudan/Ethiopian plains, as did the Maasai, and they share common ancestry with the Maasai. They are pastoral (herders) like the Maasai and share many physical traits as well as dwelling design and village structure. The basic family living structure is a “boma,” which is a round brush- or stone-fenced enclosure, sized to contain the family’s dwelling as well as their herds.

The boma gate is a thornbush pushed to the side for the daytime

The boma gate is a thornbush pushed to the side for the daytime. Our day guide, a Maasai, is in blue, between Chagamba and Mika.

We followed the man to the enclosure and he led is through the gate, which was a thorn tree thrown to the side. The enclosure was circular, about 50 meters in diameter, and was partitioned into a corral for cattle, a corral for sheep and goats, and a living area with simple mud structures for family quarters.

Typical boma plan (internet photo)

Typical boma plan (internet photo)

We meet the family.  The main hut is in the background.

We meet the family. The main hut is in the background.

The oldest daughter watches thoughtfully.

His daughter watches thoughtfully.

The man’s wife and 2 children came out to greet us, shyly. They allowed us to peak into their living quarters–cramped, dark, low–and soon two women from nearby bomas joined us. We asked questions, with our day guide, as well as Chagamba and Mika, interpreting. Their water source was a spring about 3 km away. They used donkeys to carry water in 5 gal. buckets. The wife and 2 daughters slept in the house, the husband in a shed about 10 meters apart. We learned that it is not polite to ask a man how many cows or goats he has, though this man had a good deal of both–enough to have another wife in a different village. They welcomed us to take pictures.

Dad's sleeping accommodations are part of the shed, 10 meters from the main hut.

Dad’s sleeping accommodations are part of the shed, 10 meters from the main hut.

 

 

 

 

We offered the man a tip as we were leaving, 10,000 shillings, a generous amount. “What about my wife?” he asked. Caught unawares, we dug in our pockets and came up with another 5,000 shillings and offered it to his wife. “And the neighbors?” he asked?   He was

Water transport system.  A spring is about 3 km away.

Water transport system. A spring is about 3 km away.

a good businessman! Our guide intervened at that point and we wandered back into the open land and headed back toward the lodge. We felt very privileged to have spent time with a Barbaig family and seen a boma from the inside. Our day guide confessed that he had never done this before.

Detail of the wattle.  Cattle dung and mud are mixed together to form an adobe-like material.

Detail of the wattle. Cattle dung and mud are mixed together to form an adobe-like material.

Talk

Chagamba speaks with the family and interprets for us. Swahili is the common tongue, though not the native Barbaig or Maasai language.

 

The Bird Walk

The Superb Starling

The Superb Starling (photo by Beth V.)

A bird walk in Africa is not really a walk at all.  At least it’s not if you consider walking a form of exercise or a means to get somewhere.  A bird walk consists of taking a few steps, pointing toward tree or sky, exclaiming “what’s that?”, then hoisting the binocs and thumbing through the bird book until you arrive at the Aha! moment.  If your guide already knows the bird, the last step may be waived.  More birds are discovered and discussed.  10 minutes later, the birders advance 25 meters and the stages are repeated.  This can go on for a full morning with the round trip from camp traversing maybe 2 km.

Birders birding

Birding–a few in our group are dedicated birders

This is totally engrossing if you’re into the fascinating puzzle that is “birds.”  It’s a combination of Where’s Waldo, What’s Liz Wearing, Scrapbooking and studying for the SAT all wrapped into one.

Lilac-breasted  green-hatted orange-winged long-tailed roller (photo by Beth V.)

Lilac-breasted green-hatted orange-winged long-tailed roller (photo by Beth V.)

Philatelists, genealogists, sunken ship divers, paparazzi, and fantasy football fans all understand the magic of a personal passion and the joy of discovery.  On the other hand, the uninitiated might just stare and wonder.

Eventually, non-converts stop wondering and just stare.  African birds are, after all, often brightly-colored, crested, long-tailed or birds of prey–all outstanding characteristics that earn one’s attention.  There is plenty to study.  The birders in our group have tallied 179 new birds over the days we’ve been here, and Africa is estimated to contain

The stylish Crested Crane   (photo by Beth V.)

The stylish Crested Crane (photo by Beth V.)

1200 of the world’s 2000 species of birds. Bird sightings can be especially engaging during those dry periods when the big animals are hiding.

Still, there’s a thin line between staring in wonder and tedium, and a bird walk can test one’s patience.  Luckily, in Africa there’s always big animal poop and tracks to study.  While the birders look up, we can look down.

Birders ook up, I look down:  Here's a Duiker "latrine"-- common poop area that helps establish territory

Birders look up, I look down: Here’s a duiker “latrine”– common poop area that helps establish territory.  A duiker is a small antelope.

Tents, Tented Camps and Lodges

Our 2 person tents with cots on the Maasai Steppe provided great memories.  A latrine tent was set up for us as well as a shower tent with a water-bag shower.

Our 2 person tents with cots on the Maasai Steppe provided great memories. A latrine tent was set up for us as well as a shower tent with a water-bag shower.

We spent our nights in wilderness camps, tented camps and permanent lodges, all of which might let you think we were roughing it. Not so much. In fact, a good deal of the safari industry seems to be built around luxury accommodations, which isn’t surprising when you stop to think about the Colonial origins of safaris, the airfare and difficulty of getting to Africa and the concept of being driven around in a high-end high-maintenance vehicle for days so you can spot animals. Safaris aren’t a lark for the person scraping together a few bucks for a getaway. According to one website, backpacking in Africa can be very cheap–unless you sign up for a safari.

Peter and Lumo, our friendly cooks on the Maasai Steppe.  We were well-cared for by many attentive people.

Peter and Lumo, our friendly cooks on the Maasai Steppe. We were well-cared for by many attentive people.

We admire the backpacking, couch-surfing, hitch-hiking approach to travel, but we’ve reached what is politely called “the mature years” and now choose a bed, well-prepared food and a few niceties as we travel. One nicety was out of the question in this case–wi-fi. When wi-fi did exist, it would quickly bog down as multiple guests signed on, making blogging on the fly impossible.

Our tented lodge room near Lake Manyara had the ambiance of camping with the features of a good hotel room.

Our tented lodge room near Lake Manyara had the ambiance of camping with the features of a good hotel room.

There were many daily luxuries, however, including tasty meals of locally-sourced food, beer, and mosquito nets.  We were constantly attended to by valets to carry our bags, maids to turn down the beds, waiters to bring coffee or juice, handymen to bring firewood or light the heater, and more.  I’m used to carrying my bags and taking care of myself, and I felt ambivalent about the pampering, given that the attendants were all native Africans.  Was I just a colonialist, teleported into 2014?   At the same time, the attendents counted on our tips for a (relatively) prosperous life.  I left Africa without solving this conundrum.

The common room of the Lake Manyara tented lodge is rustic, grand and semi-permanent.

The lounge/dining area of the Lake Manyara tented lodge is rustic, grand and semi-permanent.

Here’s a sampling of our night time accommodations, from tents to lodges.

The view from the Lake Manyara lodge deck.  Betsy said it reminded her of Jurassic Park--you're set amidst this beautiful landscape where the animals come to you.

The view from the Lake Manyara lodge deck. Betsy said it reminded her of Jurassic Park–you’re set amidst a vast landscape where the wild animals come to you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lemala Tented Camp, on the rim of Ngorongoro Crater, was pleasantly utilitarian.  We were not allowed to leave our tent at night without being accompanied by a Maasai guard.

Lemala Tented Camp, set in thick bush on the rim of Ngorongoro Crater, was pleasantly utilitarian. We were not allowed to leave our tent at night without being accompanied by a Maasai guard.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We stayed at two permanent lodges, both plantations built during Colonial times.  They had  beautiful grounds and a quiet, unpretentious luxury.

We stayed at two permanent lodges, both plantations built during Colonial times. They had a quiet, understated luxury with plentiful attendants and beautiful grounds, including….

such as a lap pool and cabana....

….a lap pool and cabana….

....and a large organic garden.  All of the lodges emphasized conservation and earth-friendly practices.

….and a large organic garden. All of the lodges emphasized conservation and earth-friendly practices.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Price of Horns

African animals have many challenges, foremost of which is habitat loss and human population growth.  Rhinos and elephants have a more immediate challenge–the price of  horns.

We saw 4 black rhinos in Ngorongoro but they were too distant to photograph.  This is a 'net photo, which may be the closest we get to seeing a real rhino in a few years.

We saw 4 black rhinos in Ngorongoro but they were too distant to photograph. This is a ‘net photo, which may be the closest we get to seeing a real rhino in a few years.

Today Tanzania has about 35 rhinos; an estimated 850,000 roamed the central/east African plains in the early 1900’s. In 2012, Tanzania counted about 70,000 elephants (¼ or so of all African elephants) which might lead one to think that elephants are doing better–until one hears a government official estimate 30 elephants are being killed each day (10,000/year). Aerial surveys of Selous National Park lands in southern Tanzania, Africa’s largest protected area, found 55,000 elephants in 2007; last year, the number was 13,400.

You should plan your safari soon if you want to see rhinos and elephants in the wild.

Female elephant tusks, though smaller than males, are worth killing for in the poacher calculus.  This leaves many young elephants  as orphans.  Wildlife care organizations are setting up orphanages for their care.

Female elephant tusks, though smaller than males, are worth killing for in the poacher calculus. This leaves many young elephants as orphans. Wildlife conservation organizations are setting up orphanages for their care.   Photo by Beth V.

The economics are straightforward: ground rhino horn sells for $10,000/pound retail in China and Southeast Asia, where it is revered for presumed medicinal properties. Uncarved ivory sells for $1,500 – $3,000/pound retail, and an average elephant tusk—2 per elephant—weighs 25 pounds. Meanwhile, annual income of a typical tribal household is widely quoted as $360/year. That may be an under-estimate but the stark contrast remains. To take the comparison further, a Tanzanian park ranger makes around $2,500/year. While a hunter/poacher clearly receives only a fraction of the retail value ($100/pound according to some accounts), the incentive to hunt is high. How do you tell an African villager he can’t feed his family? Or buy a motorcycle?

Even small tusks like these are worth a dead elephant.  Recent cases show African poachers indiscriminately poisoning 30 elephants at a time by rolling pumpkins laced with cyanide into a herd.

Even small tusks like these are worth a dead elephant. Recent cases show African poachers indiscriminately poisoning 30 elephants at a time by rolling pumpkins laced with cyanide into a herd.

The economics are similar to producing coca in Bolivia or poppy in Afghanistan and, indeed, powerful Asian criminal syndicates have grown up around the horn trade. Rumors abound that the son of Tanzania’s president has enriched himself through the ivory trade. Corruption among port officials is known to be rampant. Al-Shabaab and other terrorist groups are actively involving themselves in ivory to finance their operations. And in the Congo, army units have been found moonlighting as elephant hunters using helicopters and government-issued weapons. Loyal park rangers frequently find themselves seriously outgunned when they encounter poachers.

Is there a solution? Can market demand be stanched? Rhino horn, it turns out, is largely composed of keratin—the main component of fingernails and animal hooves. As one scientist says, if you believe it cures cancer or relieves your hangover, just chew on your fingernails! An obvious and inexpensive solution would seem to be to flood the market with synthetic, cheap “rhino horn” medications.

Last elephant standing--at your local zoo?

Last elephant standing–at your local zoo?  (‘Net photo)

Ivory demand could be tougher to stem and would seem to depend on educating would-be consumers as to the threat to elephants’ survival. Ivory is a singular material that has been coveted by Asians for centuries. It’s luster, durability and workability have made it a favorite source material for artists. Demand now extends throughout the world, and it will require a serious act of will and cooperation by the governments of many nations to turn the tide. Short of that, your best bet to see an elephant in 20 years will likely be at your local zoo.