Nunspeet to Amsterdam

At the bus stop in front of our Vierhouten hotel.

At the bus stop in front of our Vierhouten hotel.

We said goodbye to our Road Scholar group on Sunday night, and on Monday morning we caught a local bus that would take us to a train in Nunspeet, which would take us to another train in Amersfoort, which would deliver us to the Central Station in Amsterdam.  The trip was smooth and efficient, and we were afoot in the rain in Amsterdam within 1-1/2 hours.  We walked 30 minutes to our AirBnB’s check-in office, took a cab to our Bickersgracht apartments and were greeted by Katie & Kyle, Russell & Monica, all ready to begin the Amsterdam adventure.

Bikes stored at the train station in Nunspeet because....

Bikes stored at the train station in Nunspeet because….

 

 

 

 

 

There is a special car on the train for bikes--and we were told you have to pay a full fare for your bike to take it along.

There is a special car on the train for bikes–and we were told you have to pay a full fare for your bike to take it along.

 

 

 

 

 

The trains were smooth and fast. Two carloads of school children rode the train, apparently on a school trip to Amsterdam. We never saw a school bus in the Netherlands--bike and bus are the way school kids travel.

The trains were fast, with minimum transfer time. Two carloads of school children rode the train, apparently on a school trip to Amsterdam. We never saw a school bus in the Netherlands–bike and bus are the way school kids travel.

 

 

 

 

 

Smooth and clean inside the train.

Smooth and clean inside the train.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In Amsterdam--Bickersgracht Canal view from our apartment.

In Amsterdam–Bickersgracht Canal view from our apartment.

Het Loo: Triumph or Crypt of Power?

Our final day featured a ride through the forest to the summer estate, Het Loo, of the Dutch Royal family.  It was developed in the late 1600’s by William III and Mary II as a hunting lodge and is a fairly modest building from the outside as castles go.

Het Loo from front.  It reminded one of our members of a big-city high school.

Het Loo from front. It reminded one of our members of a big-city high school.

It reminded one of our fellow riders of a big-city high school building.  The acres of formal gardens to the south bely the initial impression, and the inside is dark and stuffed with royal portraits, heavy furniture, exotic collectibles and other trappings of power.

The globe spouts water from each of Holland's many trading ports throughout the world, a reminder of Dutch Golden Age power.

The globe spouts water from each of Holland’s many trading ports throughout the world, a reminder of Dutch Golden Age reach.

Reactions to grand castles vary widely among people, from amazement to romance to historical curiosity to boredom, but for me the visit was disquieting.  As an American egalitarian, I cringe at the born-into-privilege political structure it represents.  As an architect in love with light and space, the endless trail of dark, over-decorated, heavy-walled rooms dim my spirit.  As a naturalist, the acres of carefully circumscribed and manicured gardens look fussy, rococo, and unhealthy.

Formal gardens modeled after Versailles--with a noted improvement.  The fountains all operate from spring-fed, gravity-powered pipe sources, unlike Versailles fountains which required human-powered pumps.

Formal gardens modeled after Versailles–with a noted improvement. The fountains all operate from spring-fed, gravity-powered pipe sources, unlike Versailles fountains which required human-powered pumps.

Trappings of power.  Light was added to the room to take this photo (from 'net).

Trappings of power. Light was added to the room to take this photo (from ‘net).

Halls of power.  Again, artificial light is added for photo as interiors are naturally lit only by candelabras.

Halls of power. Again, artificial light is added for photo as interiors are naturally lit only by candelabras.

One can also clearly feel the constraints of power in a tour of Het Loo.  The night before our visit we had a wonderful lecture from a Dutch academic, Kees Grandia, that covered, among other things, the Royal Family.  He empathized with 13 year old Amalia, current princess and heir-apparent to the throne, who would not have the freedom to pursue her individuality and passions like most young Dutch girls.  Her rearing and education is focused on preparing her for her duties as figurehead for the Dutch people.

Het Loo is designed to remind people of the monarchy’s power; at the same time, its weight and formality reminds the royalty of the burdens of their position in modern culture.  It can be seen and felt as an opulent triumph or a crypt of power.

Betsy’s Birthday Bash

Birthdays on the road surprise by nature—since a fixed site with invitations aren’t in the picture, one must stay open to the possibilities.  The calendar showed Betsy’s birthday in the middle of our bike tour and she chose to keep silent about it.  Alas, Joppe had our birthdates from our application forms and, per Road Scholar habits, presented Betsy with a sparkling candle on her dessert as we sang the birthday song.  Her secret was out.

Rolling....!

Rolling….!

A day earlier, we had spied a “Bowling” sign with an arrow near the Vigilante Hotel’s dining room.  Following the arrow, sure enough, we found a bar featuring a pool table and 4 bowling lanes.   Now, the bowling lanes offered a perfect way to celebrate a birthday.

It was largely do-it-yourself bowling, so we rented 2 lanes for an hour, invited the rest of the group to join us, and began knocking down pins.  No matter that most of us hadn’t bowled for years!  The pins were safe from any real damage as many balls took the easy route and dove for the gutter.  Plus the lanes featured an unusual pinsetter—a fine wire connected the top of each pin to its mooring on the pinsetter, so that when pinsetter raised for a re-set, the pins would dance like marionettes before being gently set back down into position.  The wire tether kept the pins from exploding into each other—or maybe that was the low rolling velocity on our bowling balls—so there was a dearth of strikes and spares.  In fact, with 8 bowlers, no one got to triple digits in score.

Hank scores high!

Hank scores high!

That had no impact on the amount of fun, and 76-year-old Hank, our SAG master for the bike tour, delighted for days afterward in reminding us that he scored the highest on his lane.

For Betsy, the impromptu party was a birthday bash, and one she will remember.

 

 

 

 

The Hidden Village

Betsy among flowers in the Orchid House

Betsy among flowers in the Orchid House

On Friday morning, we loaded our van-bus to transfer to the little village of Vierhouten, set in a large tract of woods owned by the Dutch Royal Family and open to the public much like a national forest in the US.  We stopped at an Orchid Greenhouse, then checked into our hotel before re-mounting our bikes to follow a local guide into the woods to find the Hidden Village.

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One of about 12 dugout shelters that provided dank living quarters for those fleeing the Germans. This one has been restored. As many as 18 people would crowd into the 16′ x 16′ room.

From 1942 until 1944, the Hidden Village served as a stop on the Dutch Resistance’s underground village, a respite for Jews, downed Allied fliers, and others sought by the Germans.  Meanwhile, German garrisons occupied Vierhouten and other nearby towns.  The Hidden Village consisted of 12 earthen dugout shelters, similar to prairie sod houses, scattered over a couple acres of deep forest about 4 km from Vierhouten.  It housed up to 100 people at a time, and some Jewish residents lived there for months.  Townspeople snuck food out to the encampment, and residents were not allowed to venture outside or cook during the day for fear they would be found by the Germans.

The village ended in 1944 due to pure happenstance.  Two young boys from the Hidden Village decided to go to a spring for water during the day, against instructions.  Meanwhile, two young German soldiers were out hunting for game.  The boys were intercepted by the Germans, who quizzed them closely.

The memorial at the site where the 6 captured villagers were executed by the Germans. Our guide, a volunteer from a nearby village, shows a picture of a victim.

The memorial at the site where the 6 captured villagers were executed by the Germans. Our guide, a volunteer from a nearby village, shows a picture of a victim.

The boys, young Jews from Germany, spoke perfect German and maintained they were on holiday.  Feigning interest in hunting, they asked one of the young soldiers to fire his gun.  This, in fact, was an agreed-on signal to the village that they had been discovered.  The young Germans returned to their garrison to report the incident, and by the time a search party discovered the village, the occupants had fled save for 6 who had decided to return for some treasured goods.  The 6 were captured and later executed; all of the others successfully escaped.

The story brings into focus the Dutch’s role during WW II.  The Germans invaded and overpowered the Netherlands easily in early 1940, and saw in the Dutch a people who looked, talked and acted much like them.  They foresaw a vassal-state that could help staff their war effort with workers, factories, and logistics.  The Dutch approach varied, but contained the usual dose of Dutch pragmatism.  Some complied—a few enthusiastically, most grudgingly; many more resisted simply by refusing to follow German directions, much to the occupiers’ frustration; and many actively resisted by participating in the Dutch Resistance, which operated throughout the country.

A statue in the town of Elburg, erected after the war by a prominent Jewish resident, honoring the townspeople for their efforts to shelter Jews.

A statue in the town of Elburg, erected after the war by a prominent Jewish resident, honoring the townspeople for their efforts to shelter Jews.

Dutch acceptance and tolerance was a trademark of Amsterdam since the Dutch Golden Age in the 17th century, and intellectuals persecuted in other European cities often sought refuge there.  Russell Shorto, in his very readable book, “Amsterdam, A History of the World’s Most Liberal City”, observes that Dutch tolerance was less rooted in deep allegiance to personal rights than it was to “gedogen”, a Dutch word that he suggests means “looking the other way”, or “live and let live.”  Its roots were Dutch pragmatism as much as Dutch principle, and there were many instances over the last 300 years when Dutch tolerance did not live up to its reputation.  World War II was one of the most troubling times, filled with stories of surrender and complicity as well as stories of defiance and heroism.  Amsterdammers both hid German targets, such as Anne Frank’s family, and gave them up to the Germans to be sent to “work camps”, which became death camps.  In the countryside, the Dutch Resistance in small towns such as Vierhouten shielded many of their local citizens and shuttled fugitives to safer environs.

The Hidden Village is a story of heroism, and a few survivors still live in Amsterdam and return for an annual commemoration at the site.

Cheese and Smoked Eel

Otto Jan, organic farmer

Otto Jan, organic farmer

Thursday was another of Joppe’s “beautiful” days so we put on the rain coats and pedaled into Friesland again.  After 10 or so miles, we came to our first stop of the day, an organic cheese and dairy farm near Workum.  Otto Jan and his brother operate 4 farms consisting of 400 Jersey cows, all raised and fed organically.  As with so many businesses we visited in northern Netherlands, it was

It's a family business so Otto's sister-in-law handles the cheese counter

It’s a family business so Otto’s sister-in-law handles the cheese counter

family owned and operated, and management and labor were barely distinguishable.  Otto gave us a tour and spoke with us for an hour.

We returned to our bikes and the light rain and headed a couple miles south to Hinderloopen.  There we found the Ice Skate Museum in an inauspicious old house filled with antiques.  Equally important, the owner is a decorative painter who has made a living for 50 years painting unique

The owner paints a distinctive Hindeloopen decorative pattern on a wooden tray.

The owner paints a distinctive Hindeloopen decorative pattern on a wooden tray.

Hindeloopen motifs on chairs, pottery, special boxes and just about anything else you can think of.  It turns out that, historically, each town had it’s unique decorative floral designs and artists; now he and his son are the only ones left in Hindeloopen, and there are few left in Friesland.

 

 

Each local town has it's own historic dress pattern as well.

Each local town has it’s own historic dress pattern as well….

 

 

....as this ensemble shows

….as this ensemble shows

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Several rooms of the same house are dedicated to an Ice Skate Museum

Several rooms of the same house are dedicated to an Ice Skate Museum

Our little group then repaired to the seashore to sample smoked eel.  We found a little over-the-counter fish house, waited our turn, ordered our eel, and struck up a conversation with a man busying himself with sundry things outside.  He, it turned out, is also the last of a kind in Hindeloopen.  He and his wife own the restaurant and fishing

Hindeloopen's last fisherman demonstrates how an eel trap works.

Hindeloopen’s last fisherman demonstrates how an eel trap works.

boat, and he catches eel via 1,500 eel traps and smokes them in a box outside his restaurant.  In earlier days, 30 fisherman operated out of Hindeloopen he said.  Only he remains.

We pedaled back to our Makkum hotel reflecting on new prospering family businesses and older family trades that are thriving and dying at the same time.

 

 

 

 

The freshest, tastiest smoked eel and cheese we ever hope to find!

The freshest, tastiest smoked eel and cheese we ever hope to find!