Road Rules

Share the road! Bikes, pedestrians, cars, trucks, brahma cows and motorcycles all compete for limited road space. The car rules, however. Here’s a rare median allowing a safety zone for a pedestrian.

Zanzibar has road rules, and they’re different than the US and Europe. Maybe they’re the same throughout Africa–we don’t have enough experience to know. Here’s what we’ve learned. Ignore these at your peril!

1. Roads have no centerlines or sidelines, although sidelines aren’t really feasible anyway given the narrow lanes, broken edges and dirt shoulders. This reinforces the parking lot concept–meaning, the full width of roadway is yours to work as long as there is no other traffic. Of course, there’s ALWAYS other traffic, lots of it, especially bicycles, pedestrians and daladalas, so additional rules are necessary.

Bicycles are everywhere in Zanzibar, a primary means of transport. A car toot means Hit the shoulder!

2. Advancing traffic OWNS the left side of the road but may USE the right side of the road, limited only by opportunity and courage.

3. A toot of the horn is for traffic traveling in the same direction as you. It means, “I’m coming through.” In the case of bicycles, it means “Get over–preferably into the dirt!” In the case of motorized vehicles, it means, “I’m passing you so squeeze to the side.”

4. Activating the right turn signal is for oncoming traffic and it means, “I’m coming through and claiming my full lane so don’t try anything!” In particular, it notifies oncoming drivers not to try to pass bicycles or walkers at that moment. We’re not sure what you do if you actually want to make a right turn.

Police checkpoints are unpredictable. The image is blurry for predictable reasons.

Lots of ways to haul cargo on the road though…..

5. Flashing headlights at oncoming cars means, “Police checkpoint ahead.” Police checkpoints spring up at unpredictable places with unpredictable intentions and results. They seem mostly benign, and our private-hire vans generally were waved through once the police verified that tourists were inside. However, we were delayed for 10 minutes one time while our driver and a policeman argued, walked around the van, negotiated and consulted with others. Finally, our driver received a hand-written summons of some sort. When we asked what the ticket was for, our tour guide said, “For driving with money in his pocket!” A Zanzibaran joke?

the roof of a daladala is preferred. No special road rules apply.

6. There are no stop lights in Zanzibar, and only one stop sign that we know of. To our relief, our driver ignored the stop sign and rolled through.

7. If a car breaks down, all male bystanders must push the car to clear the road.

8. Road rage is not allowed. This is why Americans shouldn’t drive in Zanzibar and why you won’t be quizzed on these rules. Hakuna matata!

 

 

Spice Island

Zanzibar and its lesser neighbors, Pemba and Unguha, have been known in the past as “The Spice Islands” because of their spice production. This is not to be confused with the islands made famous by Captain Cook and currently known as “The Spice Islands”, which are actually the Maluku Islands in the South Pacific.

The spice farm we visited is forest garden, with plants widely distributed and most spices and herbs grown in shade. It is an organic farmer's dream, the opposite of a monoculture production farm.

When the spice and tea trade abandoned the long, dangerous overland route known as “The Silk Road” and took to the sea, the Portuguese found Zanzibar well-situated with climate, cheap labor and easy sea access for growing spices for Europe. The Omanis expanded the spice plantations when they took control in the 19th century, making it famous for its clove production. It was said that sailors could tell they were approaching Zanzibar because of the scent of cloves in the sea air.

Here's the showmanship part. Notice the rope hobble that ties his feet together to make climbing easier. Stop back for the video--he sings as he climbs! I'll load it as soon as I get sufficient wi-fi....

Today, spice production is distributed throughout the world and Zanzibar largely produces spice, herbs and fruit for its own population and for tourists. Spice farm tours remain a staple on visitors’ itinerary.

We visited a private spice farm near Mgare, which was actually a spice, herb and fruit farm. Our tour was part botany and part showmanship. Below is a sampling of what we found.

 

Vanilla, anyone? It takes a lot of beans to make a drop of extract, which is why it's expensive.

 

 

 

 

 

This one's cool--nutmeg! The pliable red helmet that wraps the kernel is used as an aphrodisiac, while the kernel is used for cooking.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pepper anyone? Black, green and red pepper come from this same seed we were told--it just depends when it is harvested.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cardomom pods

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Red curry, a separate spice. The seeds can be mashed into a paste for lipstick or rouge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stay Tuned!

 

We have been without internet access the last 9 days while “in the bush.” I have been making some notes though and have a few stories to tell–big animals, yes, but a lot more. We are currently just beginning our 4-leg flight home and I will try to get a post or two uploaded via airport wi-fi if it's available.

 

 

Keeping Score

Zebras generally give us the rear view....something about being shy.  Shy with black & white stripes?

Zebras generally give us the rear view….something about being shy. Shy with black & white stripes?

A safari is about keeping score–how many animals (or birds) have you seen?  After 2 days, we are at 23 animals (70 birds) and counting, which we assume means we’re doing pretty well.  Zebra, giraffe, elephant, warthog, wildebeest, gazelle, impala, ostrich and more.  Of course it’s highly motivating to know how one’s doing.

For many Safarians, it’s about The Big Five (lion, elephant, rhino, leopard, Cape buffalo). To enhance scorekeeping, our guides jokingly informed us of The Little Five (lion ant, elephant shrew, rhino beetle, leopard tortoise, buffalo weaver ) and The Ugly Five (warthog, wildebeest, marabou stork, rhino, vulture).  We sort of keep score, but we don’t have a target score.  We just like to SEE THINGS.

Bird or beast?  The birders counted this ostrich as fowl; I went with big game.

Bird or beast? The birders counted this ostrich as fowl; I went with big game.

Which brings us to why you won’t get a daily sightings list or even cute animal pictures if you keep reading this blog.  First, you probably don’t really care what animals we saw on Tuesday or Thursday.  Second, you’ve seen lions and elephants in picture books and on Wild Kingdom, and my iPhone camera is no match for what you’ve already seen.  If you feel cheated, here’s a website for you.  Third, we’re interested in context, oddities, humor, the story behind the story, the stuff other people don’t tell you.   That’s what this blog is about.

In that respect, we are very lucky with our choice of safari companies, Mark Thornton Safaris, because there’s so much more to Africa–and to East Africa’s ecosystem–than big animals or birds, and our guides teach us constantly.  This sounds like a topic for a future post…..

Elephant joke per our guide:  What did the elephant say to the naked man?     A:  Hey, that's cute, but can you breath through it?

Elephant joke per our guide: What did the elephant say to the naked man? A: Hey, that’s cute, but can you breath through it?

OK, that said, we’ll throw in some animal pictures just to prove we really saw ’em!

We're the only ones to have this rare African animal on our list--a rare White-legged Schnauzer-Jackal

We’re the only ones to have this African animal on our list–we identified it as the rare White-legged Schnauzer-Jackal

 

Safari Days, Safari Camps

We have 9 days on safari, which we could break down by animals or birds to-be-viewed.  But since animals are notoriously bad at keeping appointments, we’ll take the safe route and break this down by our expected location.

Our route

Our route

Day 1:  arrive in Arusha, meet guides, settle in at hard-to-find lodge

Day 2:  Arusha National Park, game drive and hike

Day 3:  Maasai Steppe, 4 hour drive to arrive, then game drive, wilderness camp

Day 4:  Maasai Steppe, hike, game drive, wilderness camp

Day 5:  Tarangire National Park, game drive, wilderness camp

Day 6:  Tarangire, game drive, arrive Lake Mayara, tented lodge

Day 7:  Lake Manyara, long hike, 4 hour drive to Ngorongoro Crater, tented camp

Day 8:  Ngorongoro Crater, all-day game drive, luxury lodge

Day 9:  Hike in Ngorongoro area, drop-off at Kilimanjaro airport

The famous Serengeti is not in our plans.  We will make a clock-wise circle around Arusha and see more biomes and more bird varieties this way, as well as, we expect, all the major animals.