{"id":1319,"date":"2017-05-11T16:19:01","date_gmt":"2017-05-11T16:19:01","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/sayjack.net\/?p=1319"},"modified":"2017-05-15T17:50:49","modified_gmt":"2017-05-15T17:50:49","slug":"day-5-smoking-etna","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sayjack.net\/?p=1319","title":{"rendered":"Day 5: Smoking Etna"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id=\"attachment_1297\" style=\"width: 310px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/69.KenLinda.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1297\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1297\" src=\"http:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/69.KenLinda-300x265.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"265\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/69.KenLinda-300x265.jpg 300w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/69.KenLinda-339x300.jpg 339w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/69.KenLinda.jpg 678w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1297\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ken and Linda Rosskopf met us at our hotel when we arrived in Nicolosi. They will be in Europe for the three weeks of the Giro (though not at every stage of the race).<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Stage 4, on Tuesday, promised to be a statement day for the Giro.\u00a0 190 ((118 mi) km long, it would begin on the coast in Cefalu, climb for 32 km (20 mi.) up the ominously named \u201cDead Woman\u2019s Door\u201d, traverse rolling interior hills (our \u201cSicilian Alps\u201d from Day 3) then end atop Mt. Etna.\u00a0 We rose early, loaded our bikes and gear and made the 2.5 hour drive to the town of Nicolosi at the base of Etna.<\/p>\n<p>Logistics were tricky as roads would close to traffic a few hours before the peloton arrived.\u00a0 We would need to pedal up Etna early in the afternoon to be sure we were in place before the closures.\u00a0 Reliable info was hard to come by\u2014what time would Road A close?\u00a0 Would Road B be open longer?\u00a0 Would Nicolosi be a traffic jam?\u00a0 Would the peloton be driven by a tailwind and arrive early?\u00a0 Officials, hotel managers and cycling websites had varying numbers.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1301\" style=\"width: 303px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/72.CharlesSashay.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1301\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1301\" src=\"http:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/72.CharlesSashay-293x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"293\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/72.CharlesSashay-293x300.jpg 293w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/72.CharlesSashay.jpg 750w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 293px) 100vw, 293px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1301\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Charles sashaying side-to-side to cut down on the slope. His rental bike had a 12-25 rear cassette, making for a tough pedal up 13% slopes.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>We got to our hotel in Nicolosi before 11 AM, just in time to meet our friends Ken and Linda Rosskopf (Joey&#8217;s parents). They had flown to Sicily from Sardinia, where they watched the first three stages. \u00a0We laughed and chatted for a few minutes, then they headed by car for the top of Etna. \u00a0We unloaded our bags and were ready to roll by noon.<\/p>\n<p>Etna is the tallest active volcano in Europe at 11,000 ft. high and growing. \u00a0Lucky for us, the road summit is at 6,000 feet. \u00a0That doesn&#8217;t mean it&#8217;s an easy climb&#8211;4,000 ft. in 11\u00a0mi., featuring a constant dose of double-digit ramps interspersed with a 6-8% recovery slopes.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1300\" style=\"width: 310px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/71.PatKm10.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1300\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1300\" src=\"http:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/71.PatKm10-300x289.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"289\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/71.PatKm10-300x289.jpg 300w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/71.PatKm10-312x300.jpg 312w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/71.PatKm10.jpg 623w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1300\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pat giving the OK sign as he approaches the 10 km arch.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>The ramps, of course, dominate the experience.The view is mostly of ash fields, which seems appropriate given\u00a0the blue-collar coal-miner effort it takes to get to the top. \u00a0It was as hard a 1-1\/2 hours as I&#8217;ve\u00a0had on a bike in a number of years, but it was also festive with arches erected over the road to mark 2 km increments and lots of\u00a0other bike riders puffing and\u00a0sweating.<\/p>\n<p>We got to the top by 2 PM, in time to have lunch with Ken and Linda, take the gondola up the mountain closer to the cauldron and later position ourselves 1.4 km below the finish to cheer Joey and his teammates. \u00a0The top was mobbed with cycling fans and vehicles&#8211;all the fans missing from Cefalu apparently congregated atop Etna, a much more remote and difficult place to get to.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1302\" style=\"width: 684px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/72.CrowdatTop.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1302\" class=\"wp-image-1302 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/72.CrowdatTop.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"674\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/72.CrowdatTop.jpg 674w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/72.CrowdatTop-263x300.jpg 263w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 674px) 100vw, 674px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1302\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cycling-crazy fans missing from Cefalu swarmed the top of Etna.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1320\" style=\"width: 237px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/80.Joey_.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1320\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1320\" src=\"http:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/80.Joey_-227x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"227\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/80.Joey_-227x300.jpg 227w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/80.Joey_.jpg 581w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 227px) 100vw, 227px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1320\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">After a long hard day in the saddle, Joey chats with Ken and Linda immediately after the finish line. (Photo by Charles)<\/p><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Joey and his Giro mates stormed the mountain just before 4 PM, reaching the top before 5, to the excitement of the fans. \u00a0Jan Polanc, a little-known Slovenian rider, won the stage out of a breakaway, chased hard to the end by a group of elite riders. Sicilians were disappointed that \u00a0favorite son, Vicente Nibali, &#8220;The Shark of Messina,&#8221; did not win the stage, and we were satisfied with the results as Tejay Van Garderen, BMC&#8217;s team leader, finished in the elite rider group. \u00a0Joey had done his work for Tejay earlier in the stage and finished 74th out of 192 racers, a very satisfactory result. \u00a0Soon after the finish, the party was over and hundreds of vehicles clogged the road down the mountain. \u00a0We congratulated Joey briefly before he had to get in a BMC team car to depart, then we descended on our bikes&#8211;the fastest way to get back down the mountain. \u00a0For us, it was nothing but &#8220;quality!&#8221;, as we like to say, and another epic\u00a0day. (25 mi., 4,000 ft)<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1303\" style=\"width: 255px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/73.RickTodd.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1303\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1303\" src=\"http:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/73.RickTodd-245x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"245\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/73.RickTodd-245x300.jpg 245w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/73.RickTodd.jpg 490w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 245px) 100vw, 245px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1303\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rick and Todd happy at the top.<\/p><\/div>\n<div id=\"attachment_1304\" style=\"width: 310px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/74.HowieKen.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1304\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-1304\" src=\"http:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/74.HowieKen-300x262.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"262\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/74.HowieKen-300x262.jpg 300w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/74.HowieKen-768x670.jpg 768w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/74.HowieKen-344x300.jpg 344w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/74.HowieKen.jpg 880w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1304\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Howie and Ken share a laugh in the gondola car.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1306\" style=\"width: 950px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/75.GondolaView.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1306\" class=\"size-large wp-image-1306\" src=\"http:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/75.GondolaView-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"940\" height=\"705\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/75.GondolaView-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/75.GondolaView-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/75.GondolaView-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/75.GondolaView-400x300.jpg 400w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/75.GondolaView-100x75.jpg 100w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/75.GondolaView-160x120.jpg 160w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/75.GondolaView.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 940px) 100vw, 940px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1306\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">View down the mountain from the gondola car.<\/p><\/div>\n<div id=\"attachment_1305\" style=\"width: 950px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/75.GondolatoEtna.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1305\" class=\"wp-image-1305 size-large\" src=\"http:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/75.GondolatoEtna-1024x736.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"940\" height=\"676\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/75.GondolatoEtna-1024x736.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/75.GondolatoEtna-300x216.jpg 300w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/75.GondolatoEtna-768x552.jpg 768w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/75.GondolatoEtna-417x300.jpg 417w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/75.GondolatoEtna.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 940px) 100vw, 940px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1305\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">View to the top (cauldron rim) from gondola end. The smoke from the cauldron intermixes with the clouds. \u00a0It&#8217;s a half hour drive in a Land Rover to the rim from here.<\/p><\/div>\n<div id=\"attachment_1307\" style=\"width: 950px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/76.PatatopEtna.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1307\" class=\"size-large wp-image-1307\" src=\"http:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/76.PatatopEtna-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"940\" height=\"705\" srcset=\"https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/76.PatatopEtna-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/76.PatatopEtna-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/76.PatatopEtna-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/76.PatatopEtna-400x300.jpg 400w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/76.PatatopEtna-100x75.jpg 100w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/76.PatatopEtna-160x120.jpg 160w, https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/76.PatatopEtna.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 940px) 100vw, 940px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1307\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pat walks back from the edge.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Stage 4, on Tuesday, promised to be a statement day for the Giro.\u00a0 190 ((118 mi) km long, it would begin on the coast in Cefalu, climb for 32 km (20 mi.) up the ominously named \u201cDead Woman\u2019s Door\u201d, traverse &hellip; <a class=\"more-link\" href=\"https:\/\/sayjack.net\/?p=1319\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":1320,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_is_tweetstorm":false,"jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false}}},"categories":[4],"tags":[53],"class_list":["post-1319","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cycling","tag-sicily-100th-giro"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/sayjack.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/80.Joey_.jpg","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p3QqGi-lh","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/sayjack.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1319","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/sayjack.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/sayjack.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sayjack.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sayjack.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1319"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/sayjack.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1319\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sayjack.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/1320"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/sayjack.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1319"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sayjack.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1319"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/sayjack.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1319"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}