We loaded up our gear, mounted our bikes and picked our way through morning traffic behind the Andiamo van out of Siracusa. Our destination: Caltagirone, a legendary ceramics town in central Sicily.
We climbed 2,000 feet from the coast onto the central plateau, then wound our way up and down long ridges toward Caltagirone. Wildfllowers lined the roads, filled the valleys and scented the air. May must be the right month because all of Sicily is a wildflower garden. We rolled up to our hotel at 3 PM and prepared to check out Caltagirone for dinner. (64 mi., 6,000 ft.)